Macpac NZ Alpinist of the Year 2022

The last year has been a busy time in the New Zealand mountains! Here are some highlight ascents from the last 12 months, in order of ascent. Nominations for the Macpac NZ Alpinist of the Year for 2022:

Alastair McDowell, Pat Gray – Torres Peak (3160m), Northeast Face – “Southern Traverse” (6, 550m), September 2021. This was the third known ascent of Torres NE face, following a similar line to “God’s Zone” established by Alan Uren and Craig Jefferies in 2004, with a variation on the upper half following a rock buttress to the summit.

Sooji Clarkson, Owen Daniell – Mt Aspiring (3033m), South Face – “Quite Aspirational” (5+, 400m), September 2021. A linkup of several routes, resulting in a direct line on Aspiring’s South Face.

Alastair McDowell, Hamish Fleming – 3000m Peaks Enchainment, November – December 2021. A transalpine journey encompassing the 24 highest peaks above 3000m, including a 3 day bike ride from Aoraki/Mt Cook village to Wanaka to finish on Tititea/Mt Aspiring after 30 days of effort and several storms.

Liam Pyott, Peter Le – Mt Revelation (2716m), Donne Face (22, 600m), Darran Mountains, February 2022. A remote adventure climb in the Central Darrans.

Ruari MacFarlane, Tom Hadley – Pariroa/Castle Mount (2122m), Fiordland – South Rib, February 2022. The first ascent of the South Rib involved 700m/15 pitches of climbing up to grade 17. A real Fiordland adventure climb!

Rose Pearson, Steven Fortune – Kaipo Wall, Darran Mountains – Range Rover Route, February 2022. Rose and Steven followed up the Kaipo Wall ascent with a traverse of Mt Tutoko.

Daniel Joll, Kim Ladiges – integral ascent of “Cascade Notre Dame” into “Dix du Jour” onto the summit of Mont Blanc (4809m) (ED2), April 2022. This was a very long climb starting with 10 ice pitches up to WI6 followed by a long ascent of the SW ridge of Mont Blanc, possibly the first integral ascent of these routes to the summit.

Daniel Joll, Matthew Scholes, Kim Ladiges – Changabang (6864m), India – second ascent of the West Wall, May 2022. This was the second successful ascent of the famous Peter Boardman – Joe Tasker on the West Wall of Changabang climbed 46 years earlier, despite the efforts of more than 20 expeditions.