The Fly – On the Flight Deck Wall at Terminator Crag
Fridays Fool – Telecom Tower Pitch Two
Sgian Dubh – Telecom Tower left of Afterglow
Saturday Morning Special
Book of Fools – Alternative Exit to Fridays Fool
If your looking for a fantastic final two pitches to Fridays Fool then consider this great open book corner. It can be found on the climbers left as you exit the ice on pitch two of Fridays Fool. This pic is from Steve Fortune making the first ascent in 2012. The route had been tried on several occasions by a local Wanaka climber who will remain nameless. There was talk it had no gear and needed to be bolted!! Luckily Steve made short work of the pitch in the process finding bomber protection. This is an excellent alternative M4-M5 corner and adds another quality pitch to the classic Fridays Fool.
Under Extended Pressure
In 2012 Steve Fortune, Daniel Joll and Alex Corpas extended the initial pitch of Under Pressure M8 all the way to the top of the Telecom Tower. 7 sustained pitches of hard mixed climbing. As of 2013 the route is yet to receive an onsight or clean one day ascent.
Under Pressure First Ascent
Daniel Joll pulling through the crux pitch on the first ascent of Under Pressure M8. The following year the line was extended to the top of the Telecom Tower with 6 more pitches of sustained M6 climbing. As of 2013 the full line has not been onsighted or had a clean one day ascent.
Crux pitch of Recessionary Downgrade
Looking up the crux pitch of Recessionary Downgrade M5. A great route for anyone who is wanting to see if they are solid at the M5 grade. Take a double set of cams to #4 and a single set of nuts.
Consolation prize
Craig Jefferies seconding steep ice after pulling through a steep corner on the first pitch and first ascent of Consolation Prize M6 Double Cone.
Los Indignados Direct M7
Daniel Joll working his way up some steep ground during the first ascent of Los Indignados Direct M7. Daniel veered out right just before the top anchor on this pitch and onto a slab during this ascent so the final three meters to the chains has not been climbed yet. In summer its a great grade 21 rock route. In winter the crux pitch follows a steep gently overhanging pick seam into a medium sized crack that splits the center of the pillar. When the crack runs out keep going direct to the two bolt anchor. From here you have several exit variations that give another 2-3 pitches of climbing. This range from M4 (the final pitches of State of the Nation) to harder variations around the Flaming Gerbil Crack.