An unsettled weather pattern has been bringing isolated snow showers, wind and some rain to the Remarkables over the last week. The West facing routes are in amazing condition with good ice and snow. We do advise caution when traversing Queens Drive and recommend all climbers dig regular snow pits to assess the avalanche risk. Pockets of wind slab are present on the Queens Drive and as I am sure all those attending now know the tragic death of Jamie was caused by a small wind slab avalanche on the Queens Drive.
Lake Alta ice appears to have re formed and this could be an option if the temperures remain low and there is no further significant snow fall. Lake Alta gets the sun so its important to avoid this area on a hot day especially after recent snow fall.
Border Crag is plastered with snow and there are several good looking new route options there.
At the Flight Deck Jono Clarke, Daniel Joll and Steve Fortune have established what will eventually be one of the hardest pitches of winter climbing in the country. The Fly M12? started with a 15m pitch of M10 climbing on traditional protection followed by another 15m of face climbing protected by bolts. None of the three are close to the clean ascent and this is an open project for any to try. The route requires a selection of cams to #4 including micro cams and a good wire rack with a selection of RPS. Be careful low down due to the risk of ripping the tricky wire placements, there is currently one fixed RP mid height on the crack. Also at the Flight Deck Danny Murphy and Owen from Australia climbed a very nice two pitch new M5 Chimney.
Grand Traverse. Heavy snow is and avalanche risk make the traverse a more serious proposition this year. Trail has been broken along to the Heli Pad but care and caution will be required for anyone attempting the traverse in its current conditions.
South Face of Single Cone has allot of snow however the Touch Down area is formed well and if conditions allow the ice clinics and Chicks N Picks will be held there.
West Face of Double Cone. No reported ascents in the last week but conditions look great. Please be careful on the approach.
Telecom Tower. Fantastic ice and rime on the tower at the moment. Several new routes have been completed this week.
Wall of Evening Light. This is a great dry tool climbing location. Many of the summer routes have not received winter ascents and if you absail into the climbs you can avoid most of the objective dangers if there is high snow fall before the weekend.
Please remember to make your own risk and conditions assessments. There is no safety in numbers on a mountain. Don’t just follow blindly along behind the people in front of you. If you are ever feeling un happy the best decision is to turn around.